Water Water Everywhere, but What’s a Cat to Drink?

Water Water Everywhere, but What’s a Cat to Drink?

Everyone is familiar with the three basic nutrient categories: protein, fat and carbohydrate. But there’s a fourth nutrient that’s just as important (if not more!), yet it is usually overlooked by most guardians and even veterinarians—water! You may know that two-thirds of an animal’s body is water, but in molecular terms, the body actually comprises more than 99% water molecules!

Types of Water

The kind of water your cat drinks can have a major impact on her health, because all water is not created equal. The basic types are: municipal tap water, well water, distilled water, and spring water. Any water source can be filtered to make it healthier for your cat.

Cats in sink

Flynn, Puzzle, and Mitty waiting for me to perform the magic trick that makes the water flow. Good thing one of us has opposable thumbs!

I realized the power of water years ago when I had to go out of town for a few days. One of my cats, who had Addison’s disease, stayed at the clinic while I was gone. He ate only the raw diet I provided, but he drank Denver tap water there, which he never did at home—we had a faucet-mounted filter. Marcus developed severe vomiting and diarrhea while at the clinic, both of which cleared up immediately when I got him home and back on his own clean water. Since then, I have noticed many significant health improvements when cats stop drinking tap water.

Tap Water

The quality of tap water varies tremendously from one municipality to another. Denver is far better than most, since there is no upstream agricultural land–but it’s still not great. Municipal water generally contains chlorine by-products, fluoride, and harmful contaminants such as bacteria, arsenic, chemical runoff, toxic herbicide and pesticide residue, heavy metals, rocket fuel… or even radioactivity, as cities downstream from military or nuclear facilities may contain. Some cities’ water tastes bad; but taste is not a reliable indicator of what’s really in there. In fact, some of the yuckier tasting waters are among the cleaner ones.

From a more holistic perspective, the late Dr. Masaru Emoto of Japan developed a technique for photographing water crystals that clearly demonstrates the poor quality—perhaps even danger—of water from many major cities. His book, Hidden Messages in Water, contains many photos showing this, and much more. (For more on Dr. Emoto’s work, which was featured in the movie “What the Bleep Do We Know?” visit Dr. Emoto’s official website.)

If you must use tap water, filter it before your cat can safely drink it. Even a simple Brita filter will remove chlorine, lead, arsenic, bacteria, and some chemicals. Faucet-mount filters are a step up; under-sink or whole-house filters are best. There are many brands and a huge variation in price, but in general, you do get what you pay for. There is lots of info on the Internet about which filters do what. If your city water is seriously nasty, get the best filter you can afford. Multi-Pure is the most effective and safest reverse osmosis system we have found (but minerals must be added back).

Well Water

Well water is sometimes wonderful, sometimes really bad. The only way to be sure is to have the water tested. Again, filtration may be the best option if you are on well water.

Distilled Water

Distilled water has been purified so that it does not contain any particles at all. While  purity may sound good, you really should not use distilled water for drinking. The reason lies in the fundamental nature of water. Water and solutes (molecules and particles) move by osmosis and diffusion, respectively. You might remember these from high school chemistry class! Basically, water moves by osmosis from where there is more of it, to where there is less of it; and solutes diffuse from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration. Distilled water contains zero solutes, so when it enters the intestines, diffusion will actually pull solutes out of the body. Drinking only distilled water can ultimately cause deficiencies in sodium, potassium, and important trace minerals. Distilled water also becomes acidic when exposed to air. It may contain higher levels of volatile compounds such as benzenes, trihalomethanes, and trichloroethylene, as well as highly toxic “disinfection by-products.”  In people, exclusive consumption of distilled water is associated with high blood pressure and heart arrhythmias. While distilled water can be valuable when used for a short-term process of detoxification, it’s not safe for long-term consumption.

Spring Water

Spring water, if it’s really from a natural spring, and if the spring itself is good quality, is the best choice for cats (and the rest of the family, too!). According to an NRDC report, 25% of bottled water is simply bottled tap water that may or may not have been further treated. Generic and grocery store brands should be avoided; many of them tested positive for bacteria and chemical contaminants. Designer imports Perrier and Evian tested relatively clean. Calistoga is a natural spring in northern California; most of its samples were okay. Arrowhead Springs is a real spring just outside San Bernardino; but based on test results–and having personally seen the condition of the open pond from which the water is pumped–I’d recommend avoiding it. .

To get your cat to drink more water, try a pet fountain. The best one we’ve ever found is Glacier Point Cat Fountain, which is made of high-quality ceramic instead of plastic. This excellent fountain doesn’t have those annoying nooks and crannies that are so hard to clean; it keeps the water cool; and it doesn’t leach harmful chemicals such as BPA into the water like plastic fountains do. It’s a great investment that will last a lifetime.

The bottom line is that you can provide the best food and great supplements for your cat, but if the water is poor quality, optimal health will remain out of reach.

Pure, good quality water is an essential ingredient of your cat’s wellness program!

Milk Thistle – A Wonder Herb?

What is Milk Thistle?

Milk thistle (Silybum marianum) is a flowering plant in the Aster family. A native of Europe, it has been used since the time of the Roman emperors as a liver tonic.

Milk thistle is one of very few traditionally used herbs that has been widely accepted by conventional science to have significant medicinal value.

Today we know the active ingredient of milk thistle seed extract as a flavonoid compound called “silymarin.” Most milk thistle seed extracts available today contain about 80 percent standardized extract of silymarin.

Silymarin, which is itself a combination of several other active compounds, has been extensively studied around the world, and has been shown to be safe and effective in treating a variety of liver diseases and other conditions. It specifically protects the liver against toxins (including some molds such as aflatoxin, drugs, and heavy metals), activates protein synthesis, and stimulates growth of new liver cells to replace those that are dead or damaged. Milk thistle also has strong antioxidant (destroys oxygen free radicals) and anti-inflammatory actions.

What It Does

Silymarin reaches high levels in the bile and liver (it also reaches significant levels in the lungs, pancreas, prostate, and skin). It can be used in the treatment of feline hepatic lipidosis, chronic hepatitis, cholangitis (inflammation of the bile ducts), and pericholangitis (inflammation of the tissue around the bile ducts). It may be useful in preventing or treating gallstones by thinning the bile.

Many cats and dogs with inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) have concurrent inflammation of the liver/bile system and the pancreas. This threesome of symptoms is called “triaditis.” Because milk thistle’s beneficial actions concentrate on the liver and bile systems, it may also be helpful in animals with IBD.

Milk thistle should be considered as an aid to healing after drug therapy, vaccinations, and infections such as feline distemper or canine parvovirus, as well as a potential supportive treatment for cancer. Researchers at Case Western University concluded from their work that “silymarin possesses exceptionally high protective effects against tumor promotion . . . .” One human study even suggests a role for milk thistle in diabetes mellitus through its normalizing effects on red blood cells. It may also help prevent diabetic neuropathy, a common complication of the disease that causes degeneration of the nerves controlling the hind limbs, which consequently produces weakness and an abnormal gait.

Milk thistle generally supports the immune system through its powerful antioxidant, free-radical scavenging action, its ability to preserve the supply of another important antioxidant, glutathione, as well as direct effects on immune cells. Glutathione, which is stored primarily in the liver, naturally declines over time, and depletion of this protein appears to accelerate the aging process.

While it’s not exactly the fountain of youth, milk thistle clearly has wide-ranging positive effects throughout the body. However, before you add this potent herb to your pet’s daily regimen “just in case” it might do some good, it’s important to consider that some herbalists believe milk thistle is best reserved as a treatment for existing disease, rather than being used by itself in a healthy animal.

While moderate use of milk thistle is very safe, there is some experimental evidence to suggest that long-term ingestion of very high dosages of milk thistle will eventually suppress liver function.

Dosage and Administration

The standard dosage of milk thistle seed extract is based on a silymarin content of around 80 percent; most supplements contain anywhere from 50-500 milligrams (175 mg is typical). Silymarin is found mostly in milk thistle seeds, but in low amounts. Therefore a milk thistle seed extract will contain the richest source of this active component, as well as other natural compounds found in the seeds.

Because of its excellent safety record and lack of adverse drug interactions, when I’m treating a very sick animal with advanced liver disease, I do not hesitate to use the full human dose–up to 200 mg per 10 pounds of body weight–of milk thistle extract daily. For most purposes, however, one-third to one-half of that dose is more than adequate. (Animals with liver disease typically will not eat, but it’s a simple matter to open up a capsule, mix the appropriate amount of powdered herb with a little blenderized food or baby food, and feed by syringe.) Too high a dose can cause an upset tummy, gas, or mild diarrhea; these are easily resolved by giving less.

Human research studies have shown that it is more effective to administer this herb in three or four small portions over the day than in one large daily dose. When it is not possible to split the daily dose and administer the fractional portions three or four times a day, give it at least twice a day.

The capsule form is easy to find – any health food store, and even most pharmacies and  grocers, will have them in stock. The herb also comes in a liquid extract, but most human products contain a fair bit of alcohol. If you prefer a liquid preparation, get one specifically intended for use in animals.

NOTE:  Consumer Lab® released a report in July 2016 regarding test results from ten commercial milk thistle supplements. Only Jarrow Formulas and GNC products contained the industry standard 70% silymarin; all the rest fell short. They suggest using a product containing milk thistle “seed extract” as opposed to “seed powder” or “whole herb” to get the most silymarin.

Chronic Pain of Declawing

Chronic Pain of Declawing

Declawing is an extremely painful procedure. According to the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP), “Physically, regardless of the method used, onychectomy causes a higher level of pain than spays and neuters. Patients may experience both adaptive and maladaptive pain; in addition to inflammatory pain, there is the potential to develop long-term neuropathic or central pain if the pain is inadequately managed during the perioperative and healing periods.”  (Emphasis added; please note that veterinarians who claim that using a laser decreases pain are not justified by the facts; using a laser reduces signs of pain only in the immediate post-op period.) You will see in this article that “adequate” pain management is very rarely achieved, meaning that nearly all declawed cats are at risk of developing chronic pain.

Scientific research shows that veterinarians are extremely variable in their pain management protocols. A survey published in 2000(1) found that 30% percent of veterinarians used no pain meds at all; of the others, 70% used primarily or only butorphanol–a drug since proven to be largely ineffective in cats. (I recently spoke with the lead author of this study; she believes that the situation has improved in the last decade as vets have become more aware of, and more willing to treat, pain in animals; but there are no data to prove it.) Of those few veterinarians that do provide adequate pain meds, they’re usually given only for 3 to 7 days, despite a study(2) finding that cats remained painful for at least 12 days (the end of the study period.)

Signs of pain in a declawed cat: holding up paw, positioning toes over edge, squinting, ears and whiskers pulled back

Cats hide pain extremely well; in fact, their reputation for stoicism is legend. I believe that virtually all declawed cats experience pain in one or more toes, some or all of the time. Evidence for this is the fact that 100% of human amputees experience phantom sensations (80% of them painful) for the rest of their lives, no matter how or when the amputation occurred–even as an infant, even with perfect surgical technique, and even with abundant post-op pain meds. (There’s an interesting clip from The Doctors TV show that mentions this in reference to human toe amputations.)

Despite their stoicism, some cats may eventually show overt signs of declaw pain, including:

  • Lameness (note that if both paws hurt, the cat will not limp)
  • Holding up one paw or shifting weight from side to side
  • Grimacing (squinted eyes, whiskers pulled back close to the head)
  • Shifting weight backward away from the toes
  • Dropped carpus (hyperflexion of the wrist resulting from weight shift)
  • Sitting so that the toes overhang the edge of the seat
  • Walking gingerly, as if on nails or glass
  • Reluctance to have feet handled
  • Decreased activity
  • Decreased appetite
  • Increased aggression

The most stunning aspect of these signs is that they may not be noticed for days, months, or even years after declawing surgery. Dr. James S. Gaynor, a pain management specialist (and one of my favorite professors in vet school!), says:

“Feline patients who have had onychectomy (declaw) may experience chronic pain. Owners of such cats usually report one of several concerns, the most common of which is fear that the cat is still in pain, especially in the fore paws, because it seems to walk very lightly on those feet, as if walking on nails or glass. Another common concern is behavioral changes, which may include decreased activity, decreased appetite, or increased aggression. The inciting cause for these presentations within days to months to years is usually the lack of adequate acute pain control in the immediate postoperative period.While owners may not bring their cats in for the problem early, it becomes apparent from the history that the pain, which the cat is manifesting as some problem, began sometime soon after the declaw procedure.”(3)

Dr. Gaynor believes that this type of chronic pain is due to a phenomenon called “wind-up” (as in “wind-up toy”). This is an increase in pain intensity over time that, in the case of declawing, can develop during a surgical procedure, or in the days to weeks afterward. Ordinary painkillers have little or no effect on wind-up pain. Dr. Gaynor states, “Treatment for this type of declaw pain involves simultaneously treating the wind-up phenomenon and providing analgesia. Treatment of wind-up basically involves resetting the receptors so that the spinal cord can process nociceptive [painful] input in an appropriate manner, allowing analgesics [painkillers] to work more effectively.”

This TED Talk discusses the phenomenon of allodynia, or “wind-up pain.”

Prevention of wind-up pain is obviously preferable to treating it. Dr. Gaynor recommends an “aggressive” multi-modal pain management formula for declaw surgery. It is unlikely that many vets actually do this much. This information is provided in case you want to ask the veterinarian who did the declaw (or any vet who continues to declaw) if this is the protocol used in their clinic:

  • Pre-medicate with medetomidine 20 μg/kg (or other alpha-2-agonist for sedation and analgesia) PLUS hydromorphone 0.1 mg/kg (or some other effective opioid in cats, such as buprenorphine) PLUS  atropine 0.02–0.04 mg/kg (or glycopyrrolate 0.01 mg/kg). Combine in one syringe and administer SC.
  • Induce anesthesia with diazepam/ketamine, propofol, or thiopental IV.
  • Perform a declaw nerve block with lidocaine 1.5 mg/kg combined with bupivacaine 1.5 mg/kg as a total dose.
  • Give meloxicam 0.2 mg/kg SC during recovery from declaw, followed by 0.05 mg/kg PO daily for 4 days; then 0.05 mg/2 kg PO daily for 4 days.
  • Give buprenorphine 0.02 mg/kg SC 4 hours after hydromorphone administration; then 0.01 to 0.02 mg/kg buccally Q 12 H for 2 days.

Yet even this comprehensive protocol misses the boat by only giving post-op pain relief for eight days (though it’s much better than what most vets do). Pain relief should be provided for at least two weeks post-op, and even that might not be enough for some cats.

Dr. Gaynor has also developed a medical protocol for relieving this type of chronic pain. Feel free to give this information to your veterinarian if you think your cat may be experiencing chronic pain from declawing:

Veterinary Protocol for Alleviating Chronic Declaw Pain

  • Confirm pain is from paw.
  • Radiograph paw to rule out bone fragments.
  • Give amantadine 3 mg/kg PO daily for 21 days.
  • Give buprenorphine 0.01–0.02 mg/kg buccally Q 12 H for 2–3 days.
  • Give meloxicam 0.05 mg/kg PO daily for 4 days; then 0.05 mg/2 kg PO daily for 4 days; then 0.05 mg/cat PO daily for 4 days; then 0.05 mg/cat every other day for 5 days. [Note: The units for meloxicam administration are based on 0.05 mg, which is approximately 1 drop of meloxicam from the bottle, thus making dosing easy.

It’s great that there is a way to diminish the pain that declawed cats experience. However, no pain protocol can replace the amputated bones or undo the damage to severed tissues. Nevertheless, there are things we can do to help declawed cats: see “Relief for Declawed Cats.”


(1) Wagner AE, Hellyer PW. Survey of anesthesia techniques and concerns in private veterinary practice. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2000 Dec 1;217(11):1652-1657.

(2) Romans CW, Gordon WJ, Robinson DA, et al. Effect of postoperative analgesic protocol on limb function following onychectomy in cats. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2005 Jul 1;227(1):89-93. Comment by Hornstein SE, et al. in J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2005 Sep 1;227(5):707.

(3)  Gaynor JS. Chronic pain syndrome of feline onychectomy. NAVC Clinician’s Brief. April 2005.

AVMA vs Raw Food

The AVMA recently adopted a policy position against raw meat diets for pets. Their reasoning is wrong and their science is unfounded. Here is my reasoning on why AVMA (as well as the AAHA, which adopted the same policy almost as soon as AVMA voted on theirs) is wrong.

The AVMA’s Financial Conflict of Interest

According to the AVMA itself, this policy is the result of a suggestion by the Delta Society (now “Pet Partners”), which banned the feeding of raw-meat-based diets to therapy dogs in its programs in 2010. The Delta Society’s ban appeared to be instigated by a board member who, at the time, was in charge of Marketing for Nestlé Purina. Additionally, Purina donated $400,000 to the Delta Society (the largest donation ever received by the Delta Society). Purina also promotes the Delta Society on its website. The Delta Society’s vests (those worn by therapy dogs) were reportedly redesigned to include the Purina logo.

Many people (including me) believe that this policy decision was financially and politically motivated. And indeed, pet food companies provide a great deal of funding to AVMA, albeit indirectly; for example, through lecture sponsorships, receptions, exhibitor fees, and “goodies” at the annual AVMA Convention. They also donate directly to the AVMA Foundation.

In 2008, the AVMA created a four-year “AVMA Platinum Partner Program” with Hill’s Pet Nutrition. The AVMA got more than $1.5 million from Hill’s, in exchange for promotional favoritism. This relationship is a clear conflict of interest with the proposed policy. Moreover, it may violate laws governing non-profit organizations. Amazingly, in perhaps the oddest computer “error” ever made, the article from the AVMA’s Journal announcing this deal-with-the-devil somehow got “lost” in the recent update to AVMA’s website, as did other pertinent pages.

The Role of the AVMA

It is not the AVMA’s role to create a policy dictating how to practice medicine, or what foods veterinarians sell or recommend to their clients.

If AVMA wishes to educate veterinarians about the risks/benefits of any diet (or pharmaceutical or procedure), a JAVMA editorial would be appropriate. A policy that specifically vilifies a large segment of the pet food industry comprising dozens of companies is injudicious, not to mention potentially libelous. No other AVMA policy targets a specific company or group of companies by recommending that vets not use or recommend specific products. 

Hundreds, if not thousands, of veterinarians use and recommend raw diets for their patients, and have done so for many years. Many veterinarians consistently find that animals’ health improves on such diets. In fact, a researcher for a large pet food company once told me that the company had studied raw diets, and cats do much better on raw meat than on cooked or processed diets.

For AVMA to create a policy that makes a significant number of their members wrong appears to be a political stab in the back to those conscientious practitioners who have studied the issue and chosen raw diets as the best option for their patients. Moreover, it directly interferes in the sacrosanct veterinarian-client-patient relationship.

AVMA Policy

The AVMA’s policy is redundant and unnecessary. The FDA has already published a guidance document for industry concerning raw food diets. Raw diet manufacturers are also required to comply with the exact same AAFCO guidelines and the exact same manufacturing standards as any other pet food. 

AVMA Influence

The AVMA correctly states that it is not “banning” or “regulating” raw pet foods—but it is using its influence in a highly political and unethical manner. The AVMA has about 80,000 members, and it is doing its best to segregate and drive out those with a holistic mindset. This is just another nail in the coffin the AVMA has long been building for holistic and integrative medicine, in order to satisfy its largest donors: Big Pharma and Big Pet Food.

The Role of the AVMA

Despite the AVMA’s professed support of evidence-based medicine, this policy is completely unsupported by the evidence. The AVMA cites just six studies; and even those hand-picked studies—apparently the best AVMA could find–don’t actually support their position. Lets take a look.

AVMA Claim of “Facts” #1

Claim: Scientific studies have shown that raw and undercooked protein can be sources of infection with Salmonella, Campylobacter, Clostridium, E. coli, Listeria monocytogenes, and enterotoxigenic Staphylococcus aureus. These infections can sicken pets and pet owners alike, and can be life-threatening.

The U.S. meat supply is contaminated with many bacteria. Uncooked meat does carry a risk of bacterial contamination.[i] We are not arguing that point; in fact, we gladly stipulate to the fact that a lot of meat has a lot of organisms that can and frequently do contaminate it.

But which, if any, of these organisms presents a real risk to pets, people, or both?

Let’s take the bad guys named by AVMA, one by one:

Salmonella

The first study cited by the AVMA states that “Salmonella was isolated from 80% of the BARF diet samples (P < 0.001) and from 30% of the stool samples from dogs fed the diet (P = 0.105). Dogs fed raw chicken may therefore be a source of environmental contamination.”[ii]

This is not the whole story. This study looked at only 20 dogs (10 raw-fed, 10 control), and of the 3 positive stool samples, only 1 was from a dog whose food contained the same serovar; another was from a dog whose food contained a different serovar, and the last was from a dog whose food tested negative. No dog or human illness was reported, despite confirmed contamination of the food. This has consistently been the case with nearly every analysis of raw foods: they contain pathogens, but nobody is getting sick.

The second AVMA-cited study states that 95% of human Salmonella cases are due to eating contaminated food. The authors speculate that some number of these could be due to contact with dogs or dog food, and cites data from 1987, which estimated that 1% of human salmonellosis could be due to contact with pets (but not pet food). The authors conclude, “To date, raw pet foods have not been associated with salmonellosis in humans.”[iii]

The literature supports the fact that zoonotic transmission of Salmonella from pets to people is extremely rare. A 2011 review found only a single U.S. case of transmission of Salmonella from a dog to a human since 1974.[iv] (In that case the human had let the dog eat broth that had been standing, unrefrigerated, for days.)

Research suggests that up to 36% of dogs and 18% of cats are asymptomatic carriers of Salmonella.[v] The possible source of the organism was not discussed, but may include the environment as well as diet, which of course was most likely to be heat-processed pet food.

Dogs and cats themselves appear to be quite resistant to illness due to this ubiquitous bacteria. There has been only one report of illness in cats possibly linked to Salmonella, although in that case one cat was positive for a different serotype than the one in the food, and Salmonella was not proven to be the cause of either cat’s illness. Owner neglect was clearly the primary factor in their deaths.[vi]

The evidence clearly shows that Salmonella, as the most feared pathogen of raw meat diets, is not a significant threat to human or animal health.

Campylobacter

The AVMA’s reference on Campylobacter examines the public health risks of feeding raw diets to dogs.[vii] As evidence, this review cites a Hungarian study that included free-roaming dogs with access to aborted livestock fetuses and raw poultry that were found to be contaminated with Campylobacter. One person became sick, but it is unknown whether or not he handled infected tissues.

Campylobacter, a common pathogen of wildlife, livestock, and poultry, is also zoonotic. However, research suggests that only a “small proportion of human infections are acquired from dogs…usually [from] puppies that are themselves suffering from diarrhoea. Only four infections associated with cats (all kittens with diarrhoea) have been reported.” The study concluded that dogs and cats are unlikely to be the source of human infections.[viii] Phylogenetic analysis of cases, which are strongly seasonal, suggests that most human cases of campylobacteriosis are most likely due to water contamination.[ix]

One study on Campylobacter states that “…if a person and a pet have concurrent campylobacteriosis, the veterinarian must consider whether they both obtained it from some other common source (for example, food or water) or if the pet obtained it from the human being.” The authors conclude that dogs and cats are unlikely to be the source of human infection.[x]

The evidence clearly shows that Campylobacter, as the next most common pathogen of raw meat diets, is not a significant threat to human or animal health.

Toxoplasma

Regarding this protozoal parasite, which may encyst in raw meat, researchers concluded that, “Because of their fastidious nature, the passing of non-infective oocysts, and the short duration of oocyst shedding, direct contact with cats is not thought to be a primary risk for human infection.”[xi] Given that about 41% of U.S. cats are allowed outdoors where they can readily hunt and consume prey, it is unlikely that raw food diets significantly increase the risk.[xii] The primary cause of human toxoplasmosis comes from humans themselves consuming raw or undercooked meat, milk, or shellfish.[xiii] Having 3 or more kittens was also a risk factor, but a sick litter of kittens also implies an outdoor cat–and irresponsible owners.

In Canada and other countries, Toxoplasma is a common contaminant of pork. However, raw diet proponents do not recommend feeding uncooked pork, and no raw diet studied to date has contained pork.

The evidence shows that Toxoplasma in raw meat diets is not a significant threat to human or animal health.

Clostridium perfringens

These bacteria, commonly found in decaying vegetation, are common and contagious causes of gastroenteritis in dogs and cats. Infections are usually self-limiting. The study cited by AVMA to support its claim that Clostridia in meat is a significant health hazard states, “the exact relationship between C perfringens infection and gastroenteritis in dogs is not clear.” It also states that if anyone handled that meat–and did not wash their hands–they probably would have become infected. Another study reported, “No associations between C. difficile, MRSA, or VRE and consumption of raw meat were detected.”[xiv] So not only is C. perfringens not a serious issue, but neither is the more pathogenic C. dificile.

Therefore, the evidence shows that C. perfringens in raw meat diets is not a significant threat to human or animal health.

E. coli

The U.S. meat supply, particularly beef, is highly contaminated with E. coli. The organism is also ubiquitous in the environment. People commonly carry it. In the vast majority of cases, E. coli is a harmless commensal of the gastrointestinal tract. A study that looked for a pathogenic strain, E. coli O157, in raw-meat fed dogs and their environment found none. [xv]

The evidence shows that E. coli in raw meat diets is not a significant threat to human or animal health.

Listeria

The literature reports listeriosis in one dog, source unknown. Virtually all human listeria is due to consuming contaminated foods such as meat, cheese, and milk. However, contamination occurs during processing of these foods for cold cuts, hot dogs, and similar products. There is no evidence that any human or pet has ever has contracted Listeria from fresh, raw meats.

There is no evidence to suggest that Listeria in raw meat diets is a significant threat to human or animal health.

Staph aureus

The AVMA-cited study on this topic states, “Dogs are also susceptible to illness caused by Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus cereus.

These toxin-producing organisms can be found in raw meat and commercially prepared foods and may proliferate and produce toxins if the food is allowed to incubate before feeding. Many idiopathic digestive upsets of dogs may be related tobacterial growth in moist foods put out for dogs and left for many hours before they are eaten.[xvi] Many people mix water, broth, or other liquids with dry foods. This is clearly risky.

Unpublished data cultured B. cereus from every dry dog food tested; that study’s author attributes most cases of “garbage gut” to B. cereus, not Staph.[xvii] The AVMA’s source did not separate out the two species.

There is no evidence that Staph aureus in raw meat diets is a significant threat to human or animal health. 

AVMA Claim of “Facts” #2

Claim: Unless a raw protein product has been subjected to a process that eliminates pathogens that can make pets and people ill, it poses a significant public health risk to both pets and pet owners.

On the contrary, pet foods that have been subjected to a process that eliminates pathogens are far more likely to make pets and people ill. Dry food is heat-processed twice: first, the meat ingredients are rendered (a slow-cooking process that boils animal parts for hours at 250oF), and then again during extrusion (a quick process, but done at extremely high pressure and temperature).

A long record of problems with processed pet food provides more than enough proof.

Salmonella

Since March, 2012, 49 people and uncounted pets have become ill due to Salmonella contamination of their heat-processed dry commercial pet food. The recall of potentially contaminated food entangled 14 brands of food. 

A recently published review highlights the risks associated with heat-processed commercial pet foods: “There were 11 major pet food recalls in the United States between 1996 and 2010 that were due to chemical contaminants or misformulations: 3 aflatoxin, 3 excess vitamin D3, 1 excess methionine, 3 inadequate thiamine, and 1 adulteration with melamine and related compounds and an additional 2 warnings concerning a Fanconi-like renal syndrome in dogs after ingesting large amounts of chicken jerky treat products.[xviii]  (Note that the hundreds of brands and flavors included in the melamine-related recall are included as a single incident.)

But this review, published in March, 2012, is not up to date. Between May 1 and August 1, 16 brands of commercial dry pet food were recalled due to Salmonella, one due to thiamine deficiency, one due to a “strange odor,” and one due to chunks of blue plastic in canned dog food. 

Aflatoxin

Heat-processed pet food is to blame for many cases of illness and death in pets. Not only bacteria, but fungal toxins may be present in dry, grain-containing pet food. Several large pet food recalls have involved moldy grain, particularly corn. Only dry foods were involved. In a 1995 recall, dozens of dogs were sickened by vomitoxin in the food. Aflatoxin was responsible for about 25 dog deaths in 1998, and 100 more in 2006. In 2011 alone, 15 different brands of dry dog food were recalled due to aflatoxin. (Source: FDA) Aflatoxicosis has a morbidity rate of nearly 70% in dogs.[xix]

Commercial pet foods are responsible for thousands of deaths and tens of thousands of cases of illness in pets (and dozens of cases of human illness). This, of course, does not include a host of other directly food-caused illnesses such as food allergies and intolerances and obesity (with all its sequelae). In terms of morbidity and mortality, raw meat diets aren’t even on the radar.

Positive Aspects of Raw Meat Diets

Now, let’s look at the positive side of raw meat diets. We won’t belabor the point with the thousands of stories told by veterinarians and pet owners alike of near-miraculous cures when a pet’s diet was changed from heat-processed to raw. But there are actually multiple studies showing that raw meat diets for dogs and cats are more digestible than heat-processed foods. Here are a few of them:

  • Beloshapka AN, Duclos LM, Vester Boler BM, et al. Effects of inulin or yeast cell-wall extract on nutrient digestibility, fecal fermentative endproduct concentrations, and blood metabolite concentrations in adult dogs fed raw meat-based diets. Am J Vet Res. 2012 Jul;73(7):1016-23.
  • Kerr KR, Vester Boler BM, Morris CL, et al. Apparent total tract energy and macronutrient digestibility and fecal fermentative end-product concentrations of domestic cats fed extruded, raw beef-based, and cooked beef-based diets. J Anim Sci. 2012 Feb;90(2):515-22.
  • Murray SM, Patil AR, Fahey GC, et al. Raw and rendered animal by-products as ingredients in dog diets. J Anim Sci. 1997;75:2497-2505.
  • Vester BM, Burke SL, Liu KJ, Dikeman CL, et al. Influence of feeding raw or extruded feline diets on nutrient digestibility and nitrogen metabolism of African wildcats (Felis lybica). Zoo Biol. 2010 Nov-Dec;29(6):676-86.

What Should the AVMA Do Instead?

Good client education and an emphasis on safe meat-handling procedures is adequate to prevent human illness related to raw (or any other) pet diets.

Hundreds of veterinarians recommend raw meat diets, and dozens of companies make them, but nobody recommends abandoning all reasonable safe meat-handling principles when feeding them.

It is absolutely true that raw meat has a high likelihood of bacterial contamination. But using raw meat for pet food carries no more risk than preparing meat loaf for your kids: safe, as long as one uses normal precautions.

As one study on zoonotic diseases states, “The transmission of pet-borne zoonoses is complex and usually requires close contact between susceptible human beings and animals or their excretions. Such contact frequently involves lack of common sense and gross breach of sound hygienic practice.”[xx]

With specific reference to Campylobacter, but broadly applicable to all potential pet-food related zoonoses, another researcher stated, “The application of simple hygienic measures should prevent such infections.”[xxi]

The AVMA should undertake a campaign that truthfully assesses the risks from all pet diets, and encourage members to fully inform their clients about the risks and benefits of every type of food, with an emphasis on safe handling and general cleanliness.

In conclusion, the proposed AVMA policy is illogical, inappropriate, and not even remotely evidence-based. Nevertheless, AVMA voted to approve it.

Fortunately, there is a backlash, and it appears to be in favor of raw food. It is also reinforcing the (IMO entirely correct) perception that the AVMA is nothing but an antiquated, intolerant, narrow-minded gang of egotistical, self-righteous politicians and lobbyists.


References

[i] Freeman LM, Michel KE. Evaluation of raw food diets for dogs.  J Am Vet Med Assoc 2001;218:705–709.

[ii] Joffe DJ, Schlesinger DP. Preliminary assessment of the risk of Salmonella infection in dogs fed raw chicken diets. Can Vet J. 2002 June; 43(6): 441–442.

[iii] Finley R, Reid-Smith R, Weese JS, et al. Human health implications of Salmonella-contaminated natural pet treats and raw pet food.  Clin Infect Dis 2006;42:686–691.

[iv] Hoelzer K, Switt AIM, Wiedmann M. Animal contact as a source of human non-typhoidal salmonellosis. Vet Res. 2011;42:34.

[v] Sanchez S, Hofacre CL, Lee MD, et al. Animal sources of salmonellosis. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2002 Aug 15;221(4):492-497.

[vi] Stiver SL, Frazier KS, Mauel MJ, et al. Septicemic salmonellosis in two cats fed a raw-meat diet. J Am Anim Hosp Assoc 2003;39:538–542.

[vii] Hancock DD. Public health concerns associated with feeding raw meat diets to dogs. J Am Vet Med Assoc 2001;219:1222–1225

[viii] Skirrow MB. Campylobacter enteritis in dogs and cats: a ‘new’ zoonosis. Vet Res Commun. 1981 Sep;5(1):13-9.

[ix] Wilson DJ, Gabriel E, Leatherbarrow AJ, et al.Tracing the source of campylobacteriosis. PLoS Genet. 2008 Sep 26;4(9):e1000203.

[x] Bischoff K, Rumbeiha WK . Pet food recalls and pet food contaminants in small animals. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2012 Mar;42(2):237-50.

[xi] Elmore SA, Jones JL, Conrad PA, et al. Toxoplasma gondii: epidemiology, feline clinical aspects, and prevention. Trends Parasitol. 2010 Apr;26(4):190-6.

[xii] Clancy EA, Moore AS, Bertone ER. Evaluation of cat and owner characteristics and their relationships to outdoor access of owned cats. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2003 Jun 1;222(11):1541-5.

[xiii] Jones JL, Dargelas V, Roberts J, et al. Risk factors for Toxoplasma gondii infection in the United States. Clin Infect Dis. 2009 Sep 15;49(6):878-84.

[xiv] Lefebvre SL, Reid-Smith R, Boerlin P, et al. Evaluation of the risks of shedding Salmonellae and other potential pathogens by therapy dogs fed raw diets in Ontario and Alberta. Zoonoses Public Health. 2008 Oct;55(8-10):470-80.

[xv] Lenz J, Joffe D, Kauffman M, et al. Perceptions, practices, and consequences associated with foodborne pathogens and the feeding of raw meat to dogs. Can Vet J. 2009 June; 50(6): 637–643.

[xvi] LeJune, et al. Op cit.

[xvii] Cullor J. University of California at Davis, Veterinary Medical Teaching and Research Center, Tulare, CA.

Unpublished data and personal communications, 1999-2000.

[xviii] Bischoff, et al. Op cit.

[xix] Bruchim Y, et al.. Accidental fatal aflatoxicosis due to contaminated commercial diet in 50 dogs. Res Vet Sci. 2012;93: 279-287.

[xx] Kahrs RF, Holmes DN, Poppensiek GC. Diseases transmitted from pets to man: an evolving concern for veterinarians.  Cornell Vet. 1978 Oct;68(4):442-59.

[xxi] Skirrow, op cit.

Inflammatory Bowel Disease in Cats

Inflammatory Bowel Disease in Cats

A cat with a tummy ache may sit in the "meatloaf" position; squinty eyes are also a sign of pain.

A cat with a tummy ache may sit in the “meatloaf” position; squinty eyes are also a sign of pain.

Revised 6/6/20

It seems that more and more cats are being diagnosed with inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). Because this condition is commonly misunderstood, and obtaining an exact diagnosis is difficult, many times the verdict of IBD is reached in a more backward than straightforward fashion.

Warning Signs of IBD

With the word “bowel” as part of the name, you might think that the main symptom would be diarrhea. While this is certainly a common sign of IBD, in cats the primary (and often only) symptom is chronic vomiting. IBD can occur at any age, but is most often seen in adult cats between 2 and 10 years of age.

Now, we know that just about every cat vomits at one time or another, and certainly an occasional “urp” is not a cause for panic. So, when should you worry? Vomiting associated with IBD tends to be chronic, intermittent, and recurrent. It often occurs in spurts, where there will be a lot of vomiting for a couple of weeks, then nothing for a month, then another bout. Many cats aren’t particularly bothered by it, and seem completely normal otherwise.

Because of the lulls between episodes, people often do not seek veterinary treatment until the problem has been going on for many months, even years, or until more serious symptoms develop, such as diarrhea, weight loss, depression, or just “ADR” (that’s vet shorthand for the classic symptom, “ain’t doin’ right”). Sometimes, a change in litterbox habits (especially if diarrhea is involved) is the clearest signal that something’s truly amiss.

What Is IBD and How Is It Diagnosed?

What is IBD anyway? IBD refers to a group of chronic conditions affecting the gastrointestinal tract (stomach, intestines, and colon), characterized by an accumulation of inflammatory cells along the membrane lining the tract. The type of IBD varies by what cells are present. The most common type is called “lymphocytic-plasmacytic” gastro/entero/colitis, depending on whether the inflammation is in the stomach (gastritis), the small intestine (enteritis), the colon (colitis), or a combination of these. Lymphocytes and plasma cells (specialized types of white blood cells) produce an immune response through production of antibodies.

Normally, there are patches of immune cells all along the gastrointestinal tract, because of the gut’s need for a good first-line defense against viral and bacterial invaders. But in IBD, so many inflammatory cells can accumulate and cause tissue irritation that the gut lining thickens. This thickening can in turn interfere with absorption of nutrients, leading to weight loss. This thickening can be detected by ultrasound, or it may even be palpable to your veterinarian.

A cat with suspected IBD (or any chronic vomiter) should always be checked by your veterinarian, including a thorough physical exam, complete blood count and blood chemistry panel, a check of the stool for parasites and undigested foods, and perhaps x-rays or ultrasound. There are many other causes of vomiting and diarrhea—parasites, bacterial or viral infection, endocrine disorders, neurological problems, and liver, pancreas, or kidney disease. Your veterinarian needs as much information as possible in order to treat your cat in the most appropriate manner.

IBD can be definitively diagnosed only by biopsy, either surgically or by endoscope. Both require general anesthesia, and both can be very costly. Endoscopy is less invasive, but its range is limited by its length and the curves in the digestive tract. It can take samples from the stomach, colon, and first part of the intestine only. However, if the usual treatments for IBD do not work for your cat, it may be necessary to proceed with a biopsy to rule out more serious conditions.

A less common disease is “eosinophilic IBD.” Eosinophils are white blood cells that are usually associated with parasites or allergic reactions. This type of IBD is poorly responsive to treatment.

Intestinal cancer, especially lymphoma, may also mimic IBD. There is some evidence that IBD may cause or convert to cancer, so prompt diagnosis and effective treatment are essential.

What Causes IBD?

Many veterinarians believe that most cases of feline IBD are caused by food allergies or intolerances to proteins in particular. It used to be thought that all nutrients were broken down into their smallest components before being absorbed into the blood stream: proteins into single amino acids, or carbohydrates into simple sugars. Now we know that larger molecules, even whole proteins, can be absorbed intact. When immune cells see the foreign proteins from cat food in the blood, this may provoke the immune system into making antibodies to those proteins. Meat ingredients are, of course, high in protein, but even grains and vegetables, as well as soy, contain proteins that can become allergenic.

Since the digestive tract is where these proteins are making their entrance, white blood cells and antibodies gather there. The reaction of antibodies and proteins produces inflammation, which causes the blood vessels in the area to become “leaky,” thus allowing even more and larger proteins to be absorbed. This “leaky gut” syndrome triggers a vicious circle of absorption and inflammation. The bacterial population in the intestines may also shift in response to the altered environment, with overgrowth of some bacteria that may contribute to the cycle.

Dry food is much more often associated with IBD than any other form of food. In some cases, cats may react to a dry food but not to the same brand and flavor of canned food, nor to a homemade diet using similar but fresh ingredients. Dry cat food is at the bottom of many feline health woes, including obesity, urinary tract disease, diabetes, and food allergies. (For more information, see “10 Reasons Why Dry Food is Bad for Cats & Dogs.”)

Food allergies typically develop to ingredients that the cat has been exposed to over a long period of time. Therefore, low-allergen or “hypoallergenic” diets are based on novel protein and carbohydrate ingredients that are not commonly used in commercial pet foods. Ingredients to avoid include chicken, beef, fish, corn, wheat, soy, and dairy products. (Of course, if your cat has been eating a food containing lamb, rice, eggs, or any other proteins, those ingredients must be avoided as well.)

How Is IBD Treated?

The first and best remedy for a food allergy is a food trial with a “hypoallergenic” or “novel protein” diet. This may be homemade, such as ham baby food with white rice, or commercial cat food, such as duck and potato, or rabbit and green pea. Canned foods usually work better than dry diets. The diet must be strictly followed—no snacks, treats, or other cheating—for several weeks, although a response may be seen as quickly as a few days. Not only can a diet trial support a diagnosis of IBD, but it is also a method of treatment, and many cats will experience a complete remission of symptoms with dietary changes alone.

There are a number of veterinary (by prescription) diets available using “novel ingredients” made by major pet food companies. They are all available only from a veterinarian or with a prescription (although technically a prescription is not legally required). Unfortunately, most of them contain low-quality ingredients, including large amounts of grains, and by-products rather than good quality meat.

While there are better quality commercial foods available over-the-counter that claim to contain limited protein sources, multiple studies have found significant cross-contamination with proteins that are not listed on the label. Chicken is the most common contaminant; unfortunately, it is also the most common allergen. Still, such foods may be worth a try.

Another approach to dietary management of IBD is hydrolyzed proteins, such as in Hill’s z/d, which contains chicken and rice proteins that have been broken down by hydrolysis into smaller particles. Theoretically, the molecules are too small to trigger an immune reaction, and thus the cat should never become allergic to this food. However, in practice, many animals have in fact developed allergies to even these foods, so long-term therapy with such foods is not advisable.

Because of the difficulty, risks, and expense of the primary diagnostic procedures, many cats are simply put on trial therapy. The most commonly used anti-inflammatory drug used in feline IBD is prednisolone, the preferred form of prednisone for cats (there is also an long-lasting injectable form, but this may not work as well as oral medication and carries a much higher risk of adverse effects, including diabetes). This anti-inflammatory steroid can provide a great deal of relief to these kitties. If it works, the presumptive diagnosis is then IBD. Other anti-inflammatory or immuno-suppressive drugs, such as azothiaprine, are also available. Sometimes, a round of antibiotics and acidophilus to adjust an unbalanced gut bacterial population can be helpful.

Prednisolone, of course, carries its own set of side effects. It increases the risk of diabetes and ulcers of the digestive tract, increases susceptibility to infections, and puts long-term stress on the kidneys. A cat on prednisolone will eat and drink more, and may gain a significant amount of weight. You may notice skin and coat changes. Steroids will interfere with diagnostic tests, so if a biopsy is being considered, it should be done first. There are other serious potential long-term side effects of steroids, such as diabetes and kidney disease. On the plus side, the cat will feel much better, and the symptoms will be diminished or eliminated, so the benefits may outweigh the risks, at least for a trial period. However, many veterinarians use steroid treatment long-term; usually for the life of the cat. Unless the dose can be greatly reduced, this could eventually cause significant problems.

Can IBD Be Treated Holistically?

Holistic treatment options also start with diet, usually a homemade one. However, raw meat diets are risky in IBD cats, because the inflamed gut lining impairs the body’s defenses against the foreign bacteria that we know are in virtually all meat. There are two ways around this:

  1. Lightly cook the meat when first introducing a homemade diet. As the gut heals, cook the meat less and less until you can feed it raw, if desired.
  2. Do a VERY gradual introduction, starting with mixing a tiny amount of raw meat in with the cat’s regular food. Ratchet up slowly until the cat is fully converted (if that’s your preferred endpoint).

Feeding in timed meals, rather than leaving food out all the time, also allows the gut to rest and heal between meals. It is not natural for a cat to eat constantly, as many dry-food munchers do.

Eliminating dry food from the diet is sometimes all it takes in milder cases of IBD.

The most comprehensive holistic modalities for treatment of IBD are homeopathy, homotoxicology, acupuncture, NAET, and herbal medicine; although other therapies may be beneficial in any particular case. To find a practitioner near you, see the directory by state at www.ahvma.org.

Adding digestive supplements will help the cat digest the food, and repopulate some of the “good” natural bacteria.

Probiotics (beneficial or “friendly” bacteria) are gaining acceptance for the prevention and treatment of IBD in humans, and research suggests similar uses in animals. They are thought to work by out-competing pathogenic bacteria, helping heal the gut lining, and modulating the immune system’s activity. They also have anti-inflammatory properties. Choose a probiotic supplement with several strains of bacteria, as different strain has different effects.

Digestive enzymes can also be very helpful for IBD. An insufficiency of natural digestive enzymes, which are produced in the pancreas, can both cause and mimic IBD. Animals studies suggest that digestive enzymes can help reduce colon inflammation. Since food allergies are usually involved in IBD, assisting the gut in breaking down potentially allergenic proteins may also have a positive effect. In addition, because IBD is often accompanied by liver and/or pancreas inflammation, providing digestive enzymes reduces the “workload” on the pancreas and helps relieve symptoms. Proteolytic enzymes from fruits such as pineapple and papaya are especially important. A good plant- or yeast-based combination of protease, lipase, amylase, and cellulase is ideal.

Prebiotics, such as inulin, are special types of soluble/fermentable fiber that maintain a healthy gut environment and nourish intestinal lining cells.

I personally formulated a supplement combining all these digestive aids for Only Natural Pet called Complete Gut Health. It took three years to get it just right. It’s relatively palatable and most cats will eat it mixed with wet food. As with any supplement, start with just a tiny bit (to avoid sensitizing the cat’s taste buds) and gradually work up to the full amount.

For temporary relief, the herbs slippery elm and marshmallow root, which are very safe and non-toxic, can help soothe the gut lining and reduce discomfort and diarrhea. About ⅛ to ¼ tsp. of powdered herb, mixed with a little cool water, can be added to each meal. Alternatively, you can use an herbal liquid, like Animal Essentials Colon Rescue Herbal GI Support Dog & Cat Supplement, that combines both.

Can IBD Be Prevented?

Clearly, it would best to prevent this disease from ever getting a foothold. A diet of fresh, whole, unprocessed foods is the least likely to result in food allergies and other digestive issues.

Changing diets (using a variety of brands, flavors, and forms, such as canned, commercial raw, or homemade) at least every 3-4 months, to a food with different protein and carbohydrate sources, may prevent your cat from becoming allergic or intolerant to a single food in the first place. If you’re feeding canned food, once your cat gets used to it you can change flavors with every meal if you like. My cats never get the same meal twice in a row!

Always make any diet switch, including the introduction of supplements, gradually, to avoid rejection or tummy upset.

In addition, holistic veterinarians have long believed that vaccines can make the immune system abnormally sensitive or over-reactive, increasing the likelihood of developing IBD of other immune-mediated diseases. There is increasing evidence from scientific studies that this is so. Not every cat needs every vaccine — be sure to discuss your cat’s disease risk and optimal vaccine program with your veterinarian. Vaccines are intended for use in healthy animals only. If your cat already has IBD or other chronic illness, talk to your veterinarian about submitting an exemption from legally required vaccinations.

What Cats Should Eat

What Cats Should Eat

How do you know which food is the best to feed your cat? The answer depends on many factors, including your cat’s age and health… as well as your wallet! However, whatever your budget, if you learn the basics about how to assess the quality of any given cat food, you’ll be able to find a few foods that suit your cat.

In order to answer the question, “What should cats eat?” Dr. Jean has just updated and expanded her Amazon.com best-selling ebook, aptly called What Cats Should Eat (4th Edition), updated with the latest science.

This long-time bestseller clearly explains all you need to know about feeding your cat:

  • What you can (and can’t) learn from a label, including the devious tricks manufacturers use to get you to buy their food
  • How the pet food industry is regulated, and how that harms your cat’s health
  • The differences among types of food (dry, canned, raw, etc.)
  • Steps to take to improve your cat’s diet
  • How to get your cat to switch foods
  • How to make nutritious food for your cat at home
  • Dr. Jean’s “approved brands” of canned, dry, and frozen/freeze-dried/raw diets; treats, toppers, and meal supplements (completely revised based on new information!)
  • Sustainability and the pet food industry
  • Glossary
  • Resources, including helpful websites and specific supplement recommendations
  • More than 350 references, including the latest scientific discoveries.

Here’s a tiny sampling of what you’ll learn from this ebook:

  • There is no dietary life stage called mature, senior, baby cat, neutered male, midlife crisis, juvenile delinquent, or anything else–it’s all just marketing.
  • Humans don’t floss with pretzels, and dry food doesn’t clean your cat’s teeth!
  • A lot of pet foods claim to be “human grade,” but (with very few exceptions) it’s not true!
  • Testing reveals that up to 40% of pet foods do NOT contain what’s on the label: either a listed ingredient is missing, or unlisted ingredients (including the #1 most common allergen) are present.
  • Dry food is easy to hide stuff in… pretty much anything can be thrown into the vat at the rendering plant, and it will all come out looking the same—brown powder—at the end. It is impossible to know what the starting materials were (and honestly, you probably don’t want to know!)
  • Low-protein kidney diets may make your cat sicker!
  • In a homemade diet, if meat is not correctly supplemented with vitamins and minerals, then totally preventable problems like rickets, osteoporosis, and bone fractures are sure to follow.
  • A list of cancer-causing foods is nearly identical to the ingredient list on most commercial dry pet foods.
  • The “novelty effect” is when a cat enthusiastically eats a new food the first few times it is offered, but rejects it after a few meals—usually the day after you buy a case of it!
  • Many senior diets contain less protein and fat—just the opposite of what most senior cats need.
  • Pet food has a lot more in common with McDonald’s than its manufacturers want you to know.
  • There’s a pet food industry lobbying organization that doesn’t want you to know what’s really in the food, and does its best to make sure you don’t find out.

What Cats Should Eat contains a ton of practical, useful information, including:

  • What’s actually in cat food
  • How to assess a label
  • Marketing tricks to watch out for
  • Which food forms are best for cats
  • The connection between diet and urinary tract disease, diabetes, hyperthyroidism, and cancer
  • What you need to know about the pet food industry
  • How to feed your cat (right down to the best type of bowl!)
  • How to get your cat to switch foods
  • Shopping guidelines
  • List of Dr. Jean’s approved brands (available nowhere else!)
  • How to make your cat’s food at home

It also includes a glossary, resource section, and more than 370 scientific references (for the geeks among us!).

But What Cats Should Eat isn’t overwhelming. It’s easily digestible, and written in a down-to-earth, reader-friendly style. If you want the science, it’s there; but if you just want to know what to buy at the store tomorrow, that’s there too. Maybe that’s why it’s been an Amazon bestseller for years!

There’s an old saying, “Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; teach him how to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.” What Cats Should Eat does both! It tells how to “do-it-yourself” in assessing a cat food, but it also provides a list of high-quality brands so that, if you’re in a hurry, you can just pick the ones you want.

Knowledge is power; so if you want to be truly empowered when it comes to your cat’s nutrition and health, then you’ll love What Cats Should EatHundreds of hours of research have gone into this ebook. And it’s only $8.99! But even better, if you have a previous version* or you if are an Amazon Kindle Unlimited member, it’s free!! Grab your copy now!

Available only on Amazon.com

*If you bought an earlier edition, the next time you open it on Kindle, the updated edition should be available now.


What Readers Are Saying:

5.0 out of 5 stars What Cats should eat: how to feed your cat for optimal health

Reviewed in the United States on May 19, 2021

Verified Purchase

WOW!!
I really wanted to educate myself on how to keep my cats as healthy as possible and this book so delivers!
I bought it as an e-book; it allows me to share bits an pieces to my fellow cat owners that are also interested in keeping their cats healthy.
I plan to buy the hand held book because I like to be able to thumb through the pages.
I know I can bookmark on the ebooks but for me it’s not the same and doesn’t work for me.
Thank you for writing this book!
I’ve heard that halo is a good cat food company along with ‘the honest kitchen’ but know that companies sell out all the time.

5.0 out of 5 stars This book should be required reading for all pet parents.

Reviewed in the United States on May 4, 2019

Verified Purchase

This book should be required reading for all pet parents. My seven year old was diagnosed with diabetes about four weeks ago. Following Dr Jean’s advice I took her off dry food and started her on grain free canned food and have already been able to reduce her insulin dose. Thanks Dr Jean !!!

4.0 out of 5 stars Great Source for Finding Top Cat Foods/Treats

Reviewed in the United States on April 27, 2018

Verified Purchase

Hofve’s book is easy to read and follow for any kitty owner concerned about what their cat is eating and want to make sure you are feeding your feline companion the best of the best. She talks about environmental factors in the home you can control and change. Food triggers that may exacerbate symptoms, such as allergies, asthma, and other inflammatory conditions. I found the book a quick read, but gave me a laundry list of new ideas on exactly what to feed my cat and why. She narrows down her recommendations into an easy to follow list, which is the best feature of the book.

5.0 out of 5 stars Happy I read it

Reviewed in the United States on December 28, 2017

I have been reading about food as medicine for humans. Recently my neighbor told me that her cat is diabetic. This started me thinking about what I was feeding my cats. I decided to investigate. I started with kindle unlimited books that I can read without charge. This book was one I found. It is a great resource. I am going to purchase a copy.

Great resource! April 2, 2012 – By Bright Eyes

I love this book! She really explain the hows and whys of cat nutrition, and she provides of list of cat foods that meet recommended requirements. Anyone interested in taking better care of their beloved cat should get this book.

A Godsend! July 21, 2013 – Carole (Rainbow City, AL United States)

I’m so grateful for this book! I’ve only recently learned how bad dry food is for cats. I’m appalled when I think back on what I used to feed my former cat years ago; I feel so guilty knowing that his health problems were all my fault. This book is teaching me how to keep my present cat healthy through a proper diet. The doctor walks us through it step by step, explaining things in terms everyone can understand. She’s even taken pity on those like me, who are hopeless with math, and done the work for us with her “approved foods” list. I refer back to it constantly. It’s become my feeding bible – for which my bouncy, glossy, healthy cat thanks the good doctor right along with me!

Excellent resource, March 2, 2013 – Neverdahl (Austin, TX)

For any cat owner looking for a resource on cat food and nutrition, this is the book for you! Easy to read and comprehend and full of information, I highly recommend this book. It tells you what to look for when researching cat food and reading labels.

Healthy Cats, February 21, 2013 – Jennifer Cross

This is the first Jean Hofve book that I have read. Having an indoor only cat, who does restricted exercise, I was looking for a nutritional way to control my cats expanding girth without starving her. Marvellous. Full of excellent ideas on how to feed your cat, without succumbing to the mass marketing strategies of the pet food industry.


Buy it now for only $8.99!

What Cats Should Eat: A Holistic Veterinarian’s Guide to Your Cat’s Optimal Diet

Kindle Edition available at Amazon.com! Click here to order directly from Amazon.com.

You can read Kindle books without a Kindle! Read them on your PC, Mac, tablet, or smartphone — Free apps are available from Amazon for all devices!

Currently only available as an e-book, but paperback coming soon!

Giardia Natural Treatment Protocol

This is a protocol that I heard about many years ago for getting rid of Giardia, and have used many times successfully (and safely) in cats and dogs.

This protocol utilizes digestive enzymes on an empty stomach. With no food in the system, the digestive enzymes go to work on anything else that might be in the intestines–including parasites. Although it has not been tested with other protozoal parasites, it could theoretically work for Coccidia, Toxoplasma, Cryptosporidia, Neosporum, Tritrichomonas foetus, and similar protozoal parasites.

You’ll need a bottle of digestive enzymes (plant or fungal based) and one or more syringes; you can usually talk your vet into giving you a few 3 or 6 cc syringes (without needles).

Do not use products containing solely animal-based enzymes or pancreas extracts. While such products will not hurt your pet, plant or fungal enzymes are more likely to survive the stomach’s acidic environment, and still be working when they get to their destination.

You can buy enzymes at any health food store, or order online. However, avoid enzymes in combination with herbs or food supplements. The pet product Prozyme works well; or you can use a human supplement such as Source Naturals Daily Essential Enzymes, Jarrow-Zymes Plus, or Enzymatic Therapy’s Mega-Zyme.

If possible, use a product containing protease, amylase, and lipase (some also contain cellulase). These digest protein, starch, and fat, respectively. If you have trouble finding a good combo product, you can theoretically use protease (such as bromelain or papain) alone. However, the results may not be as good.

INSTRUCTIONS

Enzymes MUST be given on an empty stomach for best results.

Take one (1) dose (according to label directions for pet products) or one (1) capsule of enzymes (human product) for each animal to be treated. If you’re using a capsule, open it and just use the contents. Do not give the capsule whole; the gelatin in the capsule will interfere with the enzymes’ effects.

Mix the powder or capsule contents with a tiny amount of water to make a slurry. Use the syringe to give the slurry by mouth. In most cases it’s easiest to insert the syringe in the corners of the mouth between or behind teeth and squirt. The mixture does not taste that bad, but some cats are just not gracious about taking meds. So, be careful, but firm.

Give enzymes three (3) times a day. It is not necessary that they be evenly spaced. Before work, after work, and at bedtime is a schedule that works for many people. Give 1/2 to 1 hour before meals.

Round 1

Give one (1) dose of digestive enzymes 1/2 to 1 hour before morning and evening meals, and one (1) dose at bedtime. Take the syringe apart and rinse clean after each dose (otherwise the residue builds up and the plunger will stick). Repeat daily for eight (8) days.

Rest

Take a break for seven (7) days. This allows time for resistant cysts to “hatch.”

Round 2

Repeat digestive enzyme treatment for seven (7) days.

PRECAUTIONS

  • If you leave food out for your pet 24/7, this protocol will NOT work. Food must be given only in meals, separately from the enzymes (1/2 to 1 hour after the enzymes).
  • If there is food in the system, the enzymes will digest that instead of the Giardia, and be carried out of the digestive tract with the food. They need time to work, and they need to be all by themselves.
  • If there is anything else given with the enzymes, such as probiotics or vitamins or flavorings, the enzymes will digest those. However, simple sugars or single amino acids are fine.
  • Do not try to hide the enzymes in a pill pocket or a piece of cheese – remember, the tummy must be empty!
  • You may also add enzymes to your pet’s food to improve digestion overall, but mixing enzymes with food will not have any effect on Giardia.
  • The protocol must be done exactly as written for best results.

You are free to make any additions, substitutions, or changes you want to the protocol, but if you do, then it is no longer the same protocol and it may not work. The protocol must be done exactly as written for best results.

Fish Oil and Hyperthyroidism — Is There a Link?

A reader recently quoted part of one of our newsletters in an email, and (in addition to the subject of her email, which was our warning about alpha lipoic acid) expressed concern about Omega-3 fatty acids and their potential association with high iodine levels and feline thyroid disease. She was wary of fish oils, and although I can see how her concern came about, the basis of many of her worries is unfounded. I’d like to set the record straight.

Iodine and Fish Oils

Iodine is stored in the body in the thyroid gland. Products that use fish, fish meal, or fish oils that are derived from processing or pressing the whole fish (including the thyroid) will contain that iodine. Cod liver oil is pressed from fish livers after they are removed from the fish, and is not a significant source of iodine. The best fish and cod liver oils are also molecularly distilled, which further removes virtually all solids and other impurities. The purest Omega-3 fish oils contain, at most, a tiny trace of iodine. Good quality, fresh Omega-3 fish and cod liver oils (such as pharmaceutical-grade products from Nordic Naturals) are not the problem when it comes to iodine.

Iodine Levels in Commercial Cat Foods

Most of the iodine consumed by our pet cats comes from commercial cat foods, primarily due to the mineral pre-mixes used in these foods. Minerals, including iodine, are often included in great excess. Iodine is difficult and expensive to test for, so it’s cheaper and easier for pet food makers and suppliers to add way more than necessary to make sure the food is not deficient. They don’t care if too much gets into cat food. One study of adult and growth dog and cat foods found 10-100 times the recommended amount for many minerals. There are few maximum limits set (12 for dog food, 4 for cat food). Iodine has a maximum limit for dog food, but no similar maximum in cat food. This approach makes the food cheap, but it can cause a host of physical problems for our cats.

Cat Food and Hyperthyroidism

In addition, you may recall that a study out of Purdue University found an association between certain flavors and types of cat food and hyperthyroidism, and pointed out that pop-top cans (most of which contain BPA in their linings), giblets (by-products), and fish had the highest associations. Again, the fish going into these products are whole feeder fish, damaged or spoiled fish, or fish parts (heads, tails, internal organs) not wanted for human consumption. Iodine levels in fish meal made from these products is likely to be quite high. Fish meal is a common ingredient in cat food and on many labels is credited as the source of Omega-3 fatty acids. In reality, it is a very minor source of Omega 3’s and is used in cat food mainly for flavoring. Fish oil derived from similar sources could be similarly contaminated, which is why we stress choosing a distilled, pharmaceutical grade fish oil for your cat (I personally use and recommend Nordic Naturals).

Other Chemicals and Hyperthyroidism

Further studies have also suggested a link between fire-retardant chemicals and feline hyperthyroidism. It turns out that cheap pet food ingredients–particularly fish and by-products–are the most likely to be contaminated with these chemicals. This could not only account for the Purdue findings, but it could also be creating a “double-whammy” for our cats in terms of exposure to these toxins.

We hope this clarifies the issue and reassures our readers that pure, properly processed fish and cod liver oils contain (at most) trace levels or zero iodine, and certainly are not implicated in any situation of iodine overdose. The fact remains that Omega-3’s are deficient in virtually every pet food, raw food, and even homemade food for pets, simply because of the way livestock are raised in North America. Omega-3 fatty acids are an essential component of your cat’s diet, and must be supplemented for optimal levels to be reached.

Base Camp — How to Prepare for your New Cat

By Jackson Galaxy and Jean Hofve, DVM

Congratulations on giving a homeless animal a new life in your home! You can bet on one thing; the cat you just adopted is in the midst of having her world turned upside down. Routine is a vital aspect of cat life; it’s key in how cats define territory. Things must look the same, smell the same, and so on in order for confidence in the territory to remain high.

Now imagine the life your new companion was leading before he came to live with you. It makes no difference whether we are talking about a 7-year-old cat you adopted from the shelter or rescued from the street, or a 6-week-old kitten from a box in front of a supermarket. This cat’s sense of “stable-sameness” has been torn up by the roots. Knowing this (even if you know very little else about your new cat’s history), there is a very simple way of acclimating your cat to your home.

Base Camp Necessities

You may not have time to plan ahead, since new feline additions tend to occur on the spur of the moment, but if you can give the cat an immediate sense of belonging to a space that is already set up, it will make him feel more secure. What does “set up” mean? Let’s start with the essentials:

  • Litterbox
  • Litter (if you know the previous home, make sure to keep the litter type consistent)
  • Dishes (glass or ceramic work best for both food and water; no plastic or steel)
  • Scratching surface—a condo/post combination would be a great start to get your cat’s scent thoroughly on a piece of furniture; but at least provide an inexpensive cardboard scratcher to begin with.
  • Assortment of toys— but “just say no” to catnip if introducing a kitten!
  • If you are adding a kitten to your home, please read our article “Before You Get A Kitten” about kitten-proofing your base camp.

Where to Set Up Base Camp

Now that you have the “what,” let’s focus on the “where.” If you are introducing an only cat to the home who is not a kitten (over 1 year old), your bedroom is an ideal base camp, because it will inevitably become the core of your cat’s territory. Your bedroom is where your scent is the strongest in the house, and this will give your feline friend a sense of belonging with the new social group. However, if you have an aversion to having base camp in your bedroom, what with the litterbox and all, that’s okay. Another room will work. Remember, however, that base camp is a temporary situation—the litterbox, condo, dishes, and toys will all eventually be distributed throughout your home. In any case, if you choose another room, make sure it’s not in the basement or unused part of the house. You do want a space where your cat’s highly refined senses can pick up the normal household activities that he will eventually be immersed in. This is, after all, a process of desensitization, of gradually getting them used to the territory.

If your new arrival is a kitten, or if you are introducing a new cat to another pet, the bathroom is a great place to start. For kittens, it provides safety. There is the least amount of wires to chew on or get tangled in, sharp corners to injure, and small places to get stuck in (but don’t forget to keep the toilet lid down to prevent drowning). The smaller space will also comfort the smaller cat. The bathroom is also a more neutral site for the purposes of introducing one pet to another. It is also the only room in the house guaranteed to have a door—an important characteristic of the room!

Take all of the items listed above and make sure they are placed in every available corner of base camp. Food dish should have ample space away from water; both dishes should be located in the furthest area from the litterbox. If you can provide a condo, place it where the cat can get to a window. Scatter the toys around the room (although if we’re lucky the cat will do that job for us very nicely, thank you!). f the room is not the bedroom, do make sure to provide articles of clothing, blankets, or towels, anything that carries your and your family’s scent—to give the cat that immediate sense of belonging we discussed.

Humans and the Base Camp

Spend as much time with the new cat as you can during the first crucial days of base camping. Among the toys, you should have at least one interactive toy (a toy in which you are attached to one end and the cat to the other), to play with while you spend quality time. This will set up a routine of play to dispel stress, which is the basis of play therapy (you can read more about this in our article library article, “Play Therapy—Every Day!“). Also, take this time to set up a trusting relationship. Talk to your cat. Don’t necessarily try to pick him or even pet him, if he is acting fearful. Give it time.

Don’t crowd the base camp with every family member either. Cats on edge have a heightened sense of their already keen fight/flight response. Give everyone a turn, but let all family members know that quality time can be playing, or simply sitting and reading the newspaper aloud in a soft voice. Be aware of the small things like how your legs might be blocking what the cat perceives as an “escape route.” Make yourself as small as possible when sitting on the floor with the cat, especially in a cramped base camp like the bathroom.

Easing Anxiety

It is not at all unusual for the new cat to seem extra-sensitive, fearful, agitated, or is just having a hard time adjusting. Flower essence formulas from Jackson Galaxy Solutions can be very helpful. We’ve actually developed a formula especially for the stress a newcomer experiences called “Changing Times.” This remedy not only helps adjustment into the new home, but eases anxiety from being in a rescue or shelter environment, and even helps to release emotional baggage from past abuse.

Introducing your new cat to other resident pets is another step taken from the base camp that’s discussed in  “Cat-to-Cat Introductions” and “Cat-to-Dog Introductions.”

“De-Camping”

The final element, and most tricky, involving base camp, is de-camping. When is it time to let the cat out and about the rest of the territory with confidence? We can’t tell you that. Only you will know when the cat is feeling strong enough to “spread her wings,” so to speak. There’s a fine line between territorially traumatizing a cat (especially one that’s been in and out of rescue situations), and allowing her to problem solve on her own. Some cats are ready overnight, some in a few days; some—because of their history—can take a week or two. The more you can listen to what she has to say in those first crucial hours in camp, the clearer the answer will be for both of you.

When it is time, keep the transition slow. We know you want that litterbox out of your room. Plan where its final destination will be and move it literally just a few feet a day. An ounce of slow-going is worth a pound of peeing-on-the-carpet prevention. Take all of the key elements from camp and begin to spread them throughout the house—the condo in a sunny window in the living room, the blankets to a couch, the toys in different rooms. This will allow your cat to recognize these objects, already claimed as his or hers, and transfer them to a new area of the territory.

Most of all, take your time! You only have one chance at introducing your new companion to your home and your life. What’s a few extra hours or days in the years you will spend together? Once again, congratulations and best wishes for a long and healthy relationship!

Probiotics As Key Nutrients

Probiotics As Key Nutrients

Probiotics have been in many people’s health vocabulary for many years now. And it’s still not a cut and clear subject with information always changing, new types of probiotics coming out, and so on. So we want to shine some light on the topic.

Introducing Dr. Doug Knueven, a holistic veterinarian, who presents the latests on probiotics for pets. In his webinar he shares probiotic’s effect on overall health, physically and psychologically, and why he believes they should be considered an essential nutrient.

Dr. Doug Knueven is a holistic veterinarian. He attended Ohio State University and graduated as a veterinarian, ready and eager to help animals in need. Through some eye-opening, real-life experiences, Dr. Doug came to realize there must be more to health and healing than what he learned in vet school, which led him down the road of holistic medicine.

SUMMARY: Dr. Doug Knueven discussed how probiotics can benefit your pet’s gut health and help treat diarrhea, affect the immune system, the brain, moods, and behavior, how probiotics affect the body’s metabolism and how to use probiotics for your pet’s health.

History

The story begins with Elie Metchnikoff, a Russian-born biologist who discovered the importance of white blood cells in the body. He won a Nobel Peace Prize in 1908 in medicine, and along the way, he began to notice that farmers that lived in the country were generally much healthier than city-dwellers. He came to the conclusion it was because the farmers consumed more fermented foods. He reasoned the bacteria in the fermented food promoted the health of these farmers and that this fermentation was actually good for you. He is considered the father of natural immunity and known to have said “death begins in the colon”.

Probiotics: The Missing Nutrient

There are numerous positive effects of probiotics. Having a healthy gut is directly related to our overall health. Probiotics help us and our pets fight bad bacteria, aid with problems such as leaky gut, anxiety, immune system strength and much more. Studies have even been shown that probiotics can help with metabolism and obesity and the bacteria in itself actually acts as a detox organ.

The Microbiome

The intestinal microbiota is the collection of the living microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses) inhabiting the gastrointestinal tract.

FUN FACTS:
● Hippocrates stated “all disease begins in the gut”
● We have 100 trillion microbes in the gut (1⁄2 gallon)
● We have ten times more bacterial cells than host hells on a cellular level, so in a sense, we are more bacteria than we are human!
● We have 100-150x the number of host genes.
● Microbiomes are extremely unique, even identical twins can have distinct microbiomes
● There are thousands of bacterial species/strains.
● There are 500 cultivatable species.

Microbiome Functions

● The main function of the microbiome is to further break down foods to liberate more nutrients while producing several vitamins like Vitamin B and K
● The microbiome also completely inhibits disease-causing bacteria and nourishes enterocytes and short-chain fatty acids
● It’s responsible for maintaining the integrity of the intestinal lining and protects against bodily inflammation like leaky gut syndrome
● The microbiome affects the systemic immune system, brain chemistry & structure, and works as a detox organ

Microbes are a defending barrier against invading pathogens, aid in digestion, provide nutritional support for enterocytes, and play a crucial role in the development of the immune system. The flora has a collective metabolic activity equal to a virtual organ within an organ.

The symbiotic relationship that exists between the GI microbes and the host is critical for the proper function of nutritional, developmental, immunological, and physiologic processes in animals, and thus contributes to overall health.

Antibiotics and Gut Health

Administration of antimicrobial agents, therapeutically or as prophylaxis, causes disturbances in the ecological balance between the host and then normal microflora.

Study Example

In this example, 155 adults were chosen and given specific medications to use for 30 days. Through each participant’s stool specimens (bacteria), doctors could tell exactly which medications were taken based on what bacteria were in their intestines. Each drug caused a different problem with the intestinal flora. Basically, bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract reflect the combinations of medications that people ingested. Just like people, anything a pet ingests can mess with their gastrointestinal tract. Think of it like an ecosystem, the more diverse, the better!

So how do we keep our Intestinal Flora Healthy?

Probiotics. Probiotic literally translates into ‘for life’. An adequate amount is important to make a difference. Prebiotics are food for the probiotic. It’s basically what they need to be stimulated in their growth and be robust. Synbiotics are supplements that contain prebiotics and probiotics.

How do Probiotics Affect the Microbiome?

There was a study done where specific strains of probiotics were fed to dogs for seven days. After they stopped feeding those specific probiotics they disappeared from the GI tract, but the change within stayed. This shows that probiotics have the ability to modify the intestinal microbiota and long-term positive effects are seen even after probiotics are stopped. Many positive effects have also been shown when giving probiotics to cats. Their white blood cells were doing better, stronger red blood cells and overall fewer toxins in the body. Probiotics even help your pet prevent and treat food and atopic allergies.

Studies have shown that different types of probiotics can aid in battling depression and anxiety. A healthy microbiome balance of gut bacteria may be more responsible whether you are lean or obese than the food you eat. One such study stated “Our findings suggest that the gut microbiota is an important environmental factor that affects energy harvest from the diet and energy storage in the host.”

Probiotics as nutrients

Nutrient: a constituent of food necessary for normal physiologic function.

Essential nutrient: nutritional substances required for optimal health.

This must be in the diet because they are not formed metabolically within the body.

Dr. Doug strongly believes that probiotics fit that definition. Ancestors of dogs ate bacteria by the animal carcasses they stored or hid for days or weeks at a time. Because of all the health related to the GI tract and the effects that a healthy gut has for overall health, it only makes sense that probiotics should be considered an essential nutrient. Just like in people, the health and well-being of companion animals depend on the gut microbes. Specific probiotic strains and/or their defined combinations may be useful in canine and feline nutrients, therapy, and overall care.

It’s All about balance

To reestablish a balanced microbiome, probiotic mixtures, as opposed to single strains of probiotics, appear to be most effective against a wide range of endpoints. Multi-strain probiotics appear to show greater efficacy than a single strain.

Quality Commercial Animal Probiotics

Finding quality commercial animal probiotics can be a bit of a challenge since it’s very difficult to check the accuracy of store purchased probiotics. In 2011 there was a quality control study executed that included 25 different probiotic products with the results as shown:

● 7 misspelled microbe names
● 4 did not list specific microorganisms
● 10 did not list expected CFU’s
● 4 of the 15th that did list CFU’s met label claims
● Only 2 had a proper label and met label claims.

There is one way to ensure to your best ability that what you are giving your pet is what is stated on the bottle. The National Animal Supplement Council is a non-profit industry trade association/animal advocacy group. Members are subject to ongoing quality review/monitoring and it is best to look for this seal to ensure quality control.

Dr. Doug has the most experience with Vetri Mega Probiotic, but also uses Nutrigest and Acetylator for problems such as leaky gut syndrome. The Purina FortiFlora has a bit more flavor than the others, so he might use that probiotic for picky dogs, depending on the situation. The list below are all the probiotics Dr. Doug currently uses in practice and recommends:

● Vetri Mega Probiotic (VetriScience)
● Rx Biotic (Rx Vitamins)
● Nutrigest (Rx Vitamins)
● Acetylator (VetriScience)
● FortiFlora (Purina)
● Entero TruBenefits – streptococcus salivarius
● Calming Care (Purina) – Bifidobacterium longum BL999

Conclusion

Just like Dr. Doug stated, “Everything affects everything, so probiotics are important, as they affect everything!” The direct, positive effects healthy flora has on your overall health can’t be ignored. It is key to promote and maintain a healthy and balanced GI tract, and you should do the same for your pet!

There are many more studies and examples within the webinar if you would like some more proof on how important probiotics are, and why they really one of the key nutrients for your overall well-being.